Youd be amazed (and chagrined) at what your jewelry appraiser sees through the
microscope. Soap scum, grease, garden dirt, skin cells, little hairs, and living flora and
fauna will collect in crevasses and pack themselves into the pockets beneath gemstones
unless the owner carries out a disciplined cleaning program. Over time, this accumulation
can cause a stubborn rash on the finger. Inherited or other pre-owned jewelry should be
thoroughly cleaned and inspected for repair before being worn by its new owner.
Your jewelry must be clean to be truly beautiful. Diamonds, in particular, derive their
beauty solely from the way they refract, reflect and disperse light. The least bit of film
from skin oil, soap, or hand lotion will change the refractive index from that of diamond
to that of grease, and most of the brilliance will be lost. Diamonds, in particular, have
a natural affinity for grease, and need to be cleaned every day.
The world of jewelry is a big one, and there are some items that you just should not
attempt to clean at all. Those would include hair jewelry (popular in the Victorian era),
jewelry set with real scarabs, butterflies and other delicate materials, jewelry with
foil-backed stones, and jewelry whose materials are in doubt. In addition, there may be a
natural patina (as opposed to dirt) on antique jewelry that should not be removed, and
some modern jewelry may have applied finishes that could be damaged if not handled with
care. When in doubt be conservative. We cannot accept responsibility for any
damage that may befall your jewelry in your attempts to clean it.
The vast majority of jewelry, however, can be cleaned to a greater or lesser extent. We
will examine the various methods, starting with the most gentle and continuing to the more
vigorous. Please consult the Jewels by Stacy Gem Care Chart for
a summary of proper cleaning techniques.
- Use a safe environment
Guard against losing a stone during the cleaning! Often, especially on jewelry that
has been worn a lot, or pieces with very lightweight settings, the build-up of grime may
actually be all that is keeping a stone in its setting! Cleaning off the grime could
dislodge the stone. While this would be inconvenient, it is a lot better than having the
stone fall out in an uncontrolled environment! Carry out the cleaning in a small bowl, and
check carefully for missing stones before pouring out the solution.
Invisibly set jewelry is very popular. These gems are cut to fit together, held from
beneath by grooves cut into the mounting. Be very careful cleaning this type of jewelry.
Press you finger against the tops of the stones while brushing from beneath, and be
- Wipe with damp cloth
For the most delicate jewelry. This method can be used with most jewelry. Dampen a
soft flannel cloth with warm water and wipe the jewelry. Use this method for cleaning
pearl strands, amber, jet, ivory and other delicate organic gems.
- Clean gently with warm soapy water
Same as above, but soak jewelry for a few minutes in a small bowl of warm water with a
little dishwashing liquid added. You might brush gently, using a soft facial brush,
or a cosmetic brush such as used to apply eye shadow. This would be a good method for
cleaning a pearl ring, and jewelry set with turquoise, lapis lazuli, malachite, coral, and
- Brush with ammonia, rinse & dry
If very dirty, dip jewelry in alcohol to cut any grease. Use a childs
soft-bristle toothbrush. Dip the brush in sudsy household ammonia and brush the stones on
all sides, especially the bottoms and sides. Brush the mounting and rinse. If the back of
the stone is difficult to reach, a tiny inter-dental brush (used to clean between the
teeth and available at most large grocers) may do the trick. Use a soft flannel cloth to
wipe any remaining film off the metal, especially the inside of ring shanks. This is a
safe way to clean emerald-set jewelry and opals with accent diamonds that need cleaning.
Also useful for cleaning jewelry where the stones may be glued in.
- Soak in ammonia, brush & rinse
Soak from a few minutes to overnight, depending on dirt build-up, in sudsy household
ammonia. I recommend soaking your diamond ring every day, either overnight or in the
morning while getting ready for the day. Brush around and under the stones, using a
soft-bristled childs toothbrush, and/or an inter-dental brush (see above). Wipe the
mounting with a soft flannel cloth to remove any remaining film. Safe for diamonds and all
faceted colored stones, except those such as emerald that might be filled with oil.
Do not use this, or any of the methods listed below, for any jewelry that may have
foil-back stones, or stones that may be glued into the mountings as is the case with many
- Sonic cleaning
Department stores and mail-order catalogue sell small vibrating sonic
jewelry cleaners for home use. These are gentler than the powerful ultrasonic cleaners
used by jewelers, and can be safely used for diamonds and all faceted colored
stones. Usually safe for emerald (that might be filled with oil) if left in for only a few
minutes. Also good for chains and other gold jewelry.
- Clean with Water-Pik
A very useful tool for cleaning your jewelry as well as your teeth! It is the only way
I can get my invisibly set wedding ring really clean. Do this after you have used the
"soak and brush" method to soften the grime. The water jet can be messy, so I
work inside a plastic bag. Set the pulse on "medium" and direct the jet under
and around the stones. With invisibly set jewelry, clean the stones first from the top,
then from the bottom while pressing your finger against the stones from the top. I have
found this method very effective for cleaning emerald jewelry (skipping the
If you use a detergent in the water tank, be sure to rinse thoroughly and run a tank of
clear water through the unit when finished.
- Boil gently, cool slowly
Restrict this method of cleaning to jewelry that just wont clean up by other
methods. Even though boiling is listed as safe for several stones on the accompanying Gem
Cleaning Chart, I strongly suggest you restrict this method to Rubies, Diamonds and
Sapphires (the colors of the American Flag). Follow the directions carefully, making sure
to avoid "thermal shock" (sudden and extreme temperature change) that can
fracture a stone. In other words, do not drop the jewelry in water that is already
You will need a pan of room-temperature water, and a strainer that will keep the
jewelry off the bottom of the pan. A screen-like strainer will work, as will a tea
strainer. Use a small amount of laundry or dishwashing detergent in the water. Put the
jewelry in the strainer, and suspend in the pan. Slowly bring the pot of water to a boil,
and boil for 10-20 minutes. Watch carefully, and do not leave the jewelry unattended! Do
not add cold water if the water level falls: that could cause thermal shock! Remove the
pan from the burner, and let cool slowly. Once the water is back to room temperature, you
may give the jewelry a final brushing, rinse and dry. Your jewelry should be sparkling
clean! (Remember to check for missing stones.)
- Ultrasonic cleaning
These cleaners send ultrasonic waves through a cleaning solution to remove dirt. These
are much stronger than the sonic cleaners used at home, and can fracture some delicate
gems. They can also shake out stones that are insecurely set.
The red, white and blue rule works well here. Rubies, diamonds and sapphires are usually
safe in the ultrasonic. One exception may be certain diamonds that have been clarity
enhanced by filling fractures with a colorless substance. Some of these fillings may be
removed by the ultrasonic cleaner. They can also be damaged by the jewelers torch
during repairs. If you own such a stone, be sure to inform anyone attempting to clean or
repair you jewelry. The treatment is not easily detectable and could be overlooked.
(Should the filling be damaged or removed, the diamond can be re-treated.)
You probably will never use an ultrasonic machine at home, but your jeweler may use one to
give your jewelry a good cleaning. If you own a delicate gemstone such as Tanzanite or
Peridot, be sure that an inexperienced sales person does not mistakenly try to clean it in
- Cleaning supplies:
- Soft flannel cloth
- Soft brush: childs soft-bristled toothbrush, complexion brush
- Inter-dental brush
- Eye shadow or similar small brush
- Sonic vibrating cleaner
- Pan with screen-type strainer that will hold jewelry below water level, or tea strainer
that will hang below the water but stay off the pan bottom.
- Ivory liquid or similar dishwashing liquid
Once you have you jewelry sparkling clean, it should be easy to keep up with daily
care. One caution: it is dangerous to remove your rings while outside the house. Carry a
tiny bag where you can put earrings if they are removed at the hairdressers, etc. Never
wrap jewelry in a facial tissue, which can be accidentally discarded! If you are away from
home and remove a ring while washing your hands or applying hand lotion, I recommend
holding it between your teeth. Too many rings have been lost in public restrooms!